Investigation into fabric spirality in various knitted fabrics and its. Normally spirality occurred in knitted garments and fabric that made by using twill fabrics. Pdf effects of yarn and knitting parameters on the. Circular knitted fabric an overview sciencedirect topics. Comparison of properties of single jersey knit fabrics knitted with single. Circular knitting, machine gauge, gsm, shrinkage, spirality. The proposed algorithm has yielded fast and accurate results. Spirality, fuzzy expert system, modeling, cotton, knit fabric. Effect of lycra percentage on the physical properties of. Evaluation of spirality in knitted fabrics calculation. Spirality in knitted fabric omics publishing group. Herath3 studied the dimensional characteristics of a core spun cottonspandex interlock structure. Read article about read article on evaluation of spirality in knitted fabrics, calculation of spirality in knitted fabrics, determination of angle of wale spirality and measurement of spirality angle.
The dimensional stability of knitted fabrics is an important area of the knitting industry. Pdf a study on spirality of single jersey knitted fabric. Tightness of the knitting construction, fabric relaxation and finishing processes also have considerable influence on the extent of spirality3. Pdf skewness and spirality of knitted structures researchgate. Spirality is particularly serious problem for single jersey knitted fabrics due to their asymmetrical loop formation. Knitted fabri c, spirality, steam setting 1 introduction several techniques dealing with yarn and fabric processing have been adopted to overcome spirality. Textiles determination of spirality after laundering. Causes and remedies of spirality for knitted fabrics. We have investigated spirality in both dry and fully relaxed jersey fabrics produced from a series of relaxed spun yams. For all practical purposes, spirality was virtually eliminated for some of the 5050 blend air jet and rotor spun yarns that were used. From this study, we have concluded that 5050 blend yarns produce less spirality than 100% cotton yarns. Iso 16322 standard, part 2 5, spirality or torque in fabrics are defined as fabric conditions, wherein fill ing yarns or knitted courses are angularly displaced. The results were compared with those for similar fabrics knitted from 100% cotton. A study on the impact of spirality on various knitted fabrics.
Determination of spirality in knitted fabrics by image analyses. This part of iso 16322 is not intended to measure the spirality of fabrics as manufactured, but rather the spirality after laundering. Therefore, the goal of this study is to develop an algorithm to determine the angle of spirality using image analyses. Result and discussion from our project work we can conclude that, in case of higher count, combed yarn, lower gsm, 100% cotton yarn used, single jersey structure cause the higher spirality in the weft knitted fabrics. The results obtained from different procedures may not be.
The pilling resistance of knitted fabrics such as 1x1rib and interlock decreased while single jersey, single pique and two thread fleece knitted fabrics increased significantly due to 5%elastane. Ebscohost serves thousands of libraries with premium essays, articles and other content including bow, skewness and spirality in knitted fabrics. Woven and knitted fabrics 1 scope this part of iso 16322 specifies three procedures diagonal marking, invertedt marking and mockgarment marking to measure the spirality or torque of woven and knitted fabrics after laundering. Textiles determination of spirality after laundering part.
Spirality percentage of various knitted construction is illustrated in. A defect of the knitted fabric is an abnormality which spoils the aesthetics i. The weight per unit area and thickness of the fabrics are higher but the permeability, the pilling grade, and the spirality are on lower side. This standard is also available to be included in standards subscriptions.
Spirality is a problem in knitted fabrics, especially in the apparel industry. Spirality in cotton knit fabrics before and after compacting using selected yarn count and stitch length materials and methods the single jersey knit fabrics were produced from selected three different yarn count 24s1 26s1, 28s1, and 30s1 by jiunn long taiwan knitting machine with. Transformation fft on woven fabric toriumi 8 measured. Various defects in knitted fabrics affect the quality but spirality is the most common fault that affects the single jersey knit wear fabric. Skew can be defined as a fabric condition resulting when the knitted wales and courses are angularly displaced from that ideal perpendicular angle. Spirality in knitted fabric hilaris publishing srl. Pdf spirality is a problem in knitted fabrics, especially in the apparel industry. Ozkan celik, nuray ucar, determination of spirality in knitted seniz ertugrul fabrics by image analyses istanbul technical university abstract department of. Researchers classified fabric spirality into four main categories.
Furthermore, it seems that each spinning technology influences the degree of spirality in fabrics. Knit tubular fabrics have a degree of spirality during normal manufacturing and processing, including knitting, batching, dyeing, padding, drying and finishing. A study on spirality of single jersey knitted fabric. As a result one of the side seams comes at front of the garment when wearer wears it.
Yarn twist multiplier is the principle cause of spirality and it is directly proportional. Pdf determination of spirality in knitted fabrics by image. The results showed that spirality% were lowest for 261 ne, 281 ne and 301 ne knitted fabrics at stitch length 4. The consumers of knitted fabrics are very much concerned about loop length, as are traders of knitted fabrics, making it financially one of the most important quality control factors. Part 1 percentage of wale spirality change in knitted garments part 2 woven and knitted fabrics the text of iso standard has been approved as suitable for publication as an indian standard without deviations. Percentage of wale spirality change in knitted garments. Effect of wales wise increment of tuck loop on fabric.
Knitted fabrics are divided into two main groups, weft and warp knitted fabrics 3. For convenience ot description this defect has been termed spirality of knitting, since it occurs chiefiy in circular fabric. Fabrics made on circular knitting machines can have inherent nonverticality of wale alignment. Weft knitted structures are affected by various forms of dimensional distortion. This geometrical defect has been termed spirality of knitting in circular fabrics. Assistant professor, department of textile engineering, alam f. Even though aspects of spirality have been studied in the literature, no papers have appeared which explicitly. Effect of knitted structure on the properties of knitted. Spirality is particularly serious problem for single jersey knitted fabrics due to their asymmetrical loop formation, and it may exist in grey, washed or finished state. This in house test method describes the method of test in order to determine the spirality test method which occurs in a material resulting from laundering procedures. From this study, it is clear that spirality depends on feed density, machine cut, and loop shape, but the magnitude of spirality can be offset by the selection of yarn twist direction. In order to promote public education and public safety, equal justice for all, a better informed citizenry, the rule of law, world trade and world peace, this legal document is hereby made available on a noncommercial basis, as it is the right of all humans to know and speak the laws that govern them.
This in house test method describes the method of test in order to determine the spirality test method which occurs in. Effects of different count and stitch length on spirality. Material and method lacoste is common derivatives of plain weft knitted fabric, which have tuck loops and knit loops in its construction. Note that some fabric constructions, such as denim, can have spirality intentionally introduced during manufacturing. Effect of wales wise increment of tuck loop on fabric width. Study on the important factors influencing spirality of weft. In this study the experimental results show that when yarn count is fixed, the increment of. The manufacturers of knitted products are also gradually becoming more aware of the value of consistent loop length.
Evaluation of spirality in knitted fabrics calculation of. Faultsdefects in the knitted fabrics textile learner. From the figure it is seen that with the increase of tuck loop in the knitted construction spirality decreases. Course spirality is a very common inherent problem in plain knitted fabrics. Fine knitted fabrics known as second skin are produced on fine gauge circular knitting machines. Weft knitted fabrics can be produced in circular or flat knitting machine. Stitch length sl is the length of yarn in a knitted loop and yarn count yc is a numerical expression of yarn that indicate fineness or coarseness of yarn. There are various types of defects which occur in the knitted fabrics of all. This paper focuses on spirality of the single jersey knitted fabrics as key. There are various factors influencing the dimensional stability. Spirality percentage depends on fabric torque and garment structure. Effects of yarn and knitting parameters on the spirality of plain knitted wool fabrics.
An investigation about spirality angle of cotton single. Sctextiles, sardar vallabhbhai patel international school of textiles and management, coimbatore. Other terms such as torque, spirality, bias and shear distortion are often used to refer to the same phenomena. Iso 8388, knitted fabrics types vocabulary 3 terms and definitions for the purposes of this document, the terms and definitions given in iso 4921, iso 8388 and the following apply. In order to promote public education and public safety, equal justice for all, a better informed citizenry, the rule of law, world trade and world peace, this legal document is hereby made available on a noncommercial basis, as it is the right of all humans to. The angles of spirality in 5050 copes knitted fabrics are observed as the smallest in air jet end openend spinning techniques. The following figure shows the fabric with normal loop position and with spirality having wale skewness. Since the increase of tuck loop increases the density of the fabric as a result the stability of the fabric increases. Study on the important factors influencing spirality of. Spirality is the angle of the knitted wales and courses from 90 degree as measured by the tumble dry testing method. Part idescriptive approach to the effect a primentasa school of textile industries, the university of leeds, leeds ls2 9jt, uk received 5 october 2001. Spirality of cotton plain knitted fabrics with respect to. Spirality is a dimensional distortion in circular plain knitted fabrics and has an obvious influence on both the aesthetic and functional performance of knitted fabrics and the garments produced from them which appear as the. Skewness and spirality of knitted structures posevnost in.
The most suitable method for producing spirality free single jersey fabrics is by knitting twofolded yarnsl. Textiles determination of spirality after laundering part 2. Cotton, polyester and viscose yarns of 90 to 120 ne are applied to produce fine circular knitted fabrics. Certain conventions are, however, not identical to those used in indian standards. There are various types of defects which occur in the knitted fabrics of all types caused by a variety of reasons. The nature of spirality textile research journal, vol. Fabric spirality tester is a equipment for dimensional distortion in circular plain knitted fabrics. Pdf determination of spirality in knitted fabrics by. The appearance of these fabrics is similar to woven fabrics but they are more flexible. Above graph shows plot of averages spirality angle versus stitch length. Spirality or twisting in a garment is appeared after washing.
The results obtained from different procedures may not be comparable. Even though aspects of spirality have been studied in the. Fabric shrinkage and spirality are the ultimate problem if the dimensional stability of the knitted fabrics is not properly taken care. B abstract original research d imensional stability as a quality parameter bears immense significance for weft knitting fabric manufacturing industries. Fabrics made on 1632 knitting machines can have inherent nonverticality of wale alignment.
Pdf determination of spirality in knitted fabrics by image analyses. Inclination and distortion of loops within knitted structures are commonly known as skewness and spirality. Spirality in cotton knit fabrics before and after compacting using selected yarn count and stitch length materials and methods the single jersey knit fabrics were produced from selected three different yarn count 24s1 26s1, 28s1, and 30s1. Single jersey cotton weft knitted fabrics tend to undergo a certain dimensional changes due to different yarn parameters and knitting parameters. Here four knitted samples are made having different percentage of tuck loops. Spirality has definite influence on both the functional and aesthetic performance of knitted fabrics and their garments.
Effect of knitted structure on the properties of knitted fabric. The basic element of a knit fabric structure is the loop intermeshed with the loops adjacent to it on both sides and above and below it. Spirality in knitted fabric jamshaid h department of knitting, national textile university, pakistan. The samples are shown here with their cam arrangement and needle arrangement figure 14.
204 988 858 630 1523 1479 1031 1473 396 1377 746 1129 1508 245 493 1497 850 850 583 1238 1173 898 494 1447 1612 934 765 697 676 789 874 485 399 1320 779 588 573 1203